..and we got a surprise!

NOS (New Old Stock. New parts that were built a long time ago and never used)  Shimano 36h hole rear Coaster hubs.

These have been laying  around a dark corner of a decaying bike shop since forever and now they can be yours!

Very similar cone clutch design to our standard “Coaster Hub” with nicer build and machining (They are from the 70′s, after all)

Check out the cool Coaster Arm!

They don’t make these things anymore and WHEN THEY ARE GONE THEY ARE GONE.

Until then, have us build your Cr18 box rims or Super deep v wheel set with this rear hub at no extra cost from our regular hub prices.

Send us an email when ordering your set online and ask for the Shimano NOS special.

As for the build, it started with a strong set of Coasties wheels.  They are nude deep-V wheels built around red anodized hubs.  Then an ultra stiff Planet X carbon track frame.  It transfers the torque generated by the Schlumpf Speed-Drive crankset to the S2C rear hub giving this coastie four speeds; the break and the ratios are all foot actuated leaving a clean unfettered look and a one of a kind ride.  Short swept handle bars give it snappy upright handling.  This bike goes as good as it looks.  Thanks for your help and great costumer service.

C.Johnson decided he wanted something so unique, we didn’t even offer it. He sent us his new anodized red hubs and this is what we helped him build.

This bike is from Space.

D.Vanlaarhoven finished it bike with our CR18/Velosteel wheel set and it was just so beautiful, it needed to be mentioned again:

Thank You very much, Johnny, for  making this all possible! To whom it may concern, I received more than I asked for when getting these wheels- double-butted spokes came as a surprise, and all with the best personal service. to recap on my bike, I took your advice on the Sram chain and installed your fabulous wheels! (I didn’t know this Velosteel coasted silently-so cool), and it looks good; fitting into the ‘older’ look I was attempting. While I was waiting, I went from a colder grey to a warmer cream color with a metalic red pinstriping and the final clear coat is crackled! I also broke-down and fit some bar tape and cork plugs for comfort. I also moved my chainring inboard to get the chainline that I needed. It’s a big difference in smoothness and much quieter, and I feel safer now. I’m sending new pics if you want: there is a better ‘Before’ Pic to replace the other one, and some finished pics as well. I cannot tell you how happy I am at how this came out. Thanks again for all your help, Dean 

I love those handle bars. Bullseye Shellac gets you a color very similar to Brooks honey leather. 

This is a 1987 Schwinn High Sierra mountain bike that I bought new in February 1988. It has a new bottom bracket, chin, and front chain ring.  Old drop bars were added from a junker, a new saddle and bar tape was installed, as well as new red wall tires on my new Coasties.  44×15 gearing.  What a fun old bike made new again.  This bike has traveled with me from Key West to Quebec City.  It has seen Miami, Orlando, Daytona, Savannah, Charleston, Myrtle Beach, Charlotte, Atlanta, Richmond, DC, NYC, Boston, Martha’s Vineyard, Cape Cod, and many, many more place.  I can’t wait to see where we go together in the next generation now as a single speed coaster. -B.Woodson

Mountain bikes typically have larger rear dropout spacing than 10 speed road conversions. This makes it harder to get your chainline straight and your rear wheel tight.

Woodson worked through these things and kept up his relationship with this old beast. Cool ride!

It’s that time again folks – BIKE OF THE WEEK

D.VanLaarhoven discribes the project:

“It’s a 1988 Schwinn Traveler.(Mississippi-made). 

I, the AMATEUR, saved money by grinding off anything I could find: cable guides, cable stop, rear hanger, shifter-mount rods, etc.

I sanded the rest just enough to paint, and sanded paint from stem and chainring, (like going from the 80′s to the 70′s), in an attempt to simplify the overall colors/style of all hardware. I sanded seatpost to prep for paint. Used a marine-grade white grease to repack stem and Bottom Bracket and removed two smaller chainrings and wheelset.

I preserved the head badge and taped over the ‘Truetemper’ sticker on the seat tube to keep for some nostalgia.  I cheeply sprayed on a bunch of layers of some obnoxious textured paint that belongs on patio furniture or something. I really like it. It is rough to the touch and gives it a little visual ‘weight’ I think. I then clear-coated it to death-cheap out of a can. Also painted inside the recesses of the seatpost to match.

I bought Scwalbe’s 35mm Chreme Delta cruisers, and a Brooks ‘Honey’ Team Pro saddle to begin the  attempt at a quality ride. No brakes and naked handle bars-

just needs some “old’ simply-styled wheels to finish the deal.”

He does a real good job explaining what it takes to restore one of these old 10 speed bikes and make it your own!

YEP!

We finally got another shipment of these fine Sun doublewalled aluminum hoops.

Unlocked the site so Y’all can order CR18 wheel sets again.

And, sadly,

PRICES ARE GOING UP!

It’s a tricky business to balance quality and price when you hand build wheels.

Lot of different factors are at play over here;

• We raised the per-wheel rate for our local builders so they can survive better.
• We are a medium/low volume business that buys our parts in the states. We like it that way, but it costs more.
• Our cost for shipping wheels has continued to increase and now we subsidize shipping on every order. $25 flat fee just begins to cover it ;(

Bottom line is…your dollars – we need more of them in order to be profitable and keep this enterprise rolling.

$20 per set cost across the board.

Video #6 -Single speed crank set

• Crankset overview
• Single speed Chain ring bolts
• How to remove stuck chain ring bolts
• Cottered crank vs. Square taper  vs. mountain bike
• How to Convert your 10 speed crankset to a single speed crankset

Video #7 -Replacing your worn-out saddle

• Bike Anatomy lesson. Seat vs. saddle
• Minimum safe hight for a seatpost
• Once piece seatpost vs. seatpost and seperate seatpost clamp
• Tricks for workin’ on stuff

Wait… is that Arquimedes in the background!?!

We don’t know when they will be back in stock, as we are looking for a new supplier for these hoops.

Meanwhile everything else is getting built but these.

Another option -

Tried and true Doublewall Cr18 box rims laced up front to a 36h bolt on forged hub and out back to a Sturmey Archer S2C two speed Coaster Brake.

Set comes complete with all hardware you’ll need to mount them on yer bike, including cog (mostly 22t)  and misc nuts and bolts.

Classy handbuilt wheels, completely ready for your commuter or your touring bike!